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Blood on the crack

A nearly impossible climb

Climbers Kevin Jorgeson and Jacob Cook head to the Bugaboos to attempt the second ascent of the Tom Egan Memorial Route, which contains one of the hardest crack climbs in the world: an unbelievably aesthetic, perfectly splitter, and excruciatingly painful fingertip crack called Blood on the Crack. The route was first climbed by Will Stanhope and Matt Segal back in 2015 after a four-year battle. Their story is shown in the Reel Rock 11 film 'Boys in the Bugs'.

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